Winter Sports

Snowmobiling is a popular activity in Sweet Grass County. Glide along a the Boulder river, through the canyon to the old mining town of Independence and over 25 miles of groomed trails south of Big Timber in the Scenic Boulder River Valley. Surrounded on three sides by designated wilderness, the Boulder Canyon Trail follows a beautiful roaded corridor that divides the towering peaks of the Absaroka and Beartooth ranges. Elevation ranges from 4,072 to 9,000 feet. Trails: Two trails provide plenty of variety in the Gallatin National Forest south of Big Timber. The 25 mile Boulder Canyon Trail takes snowmobilers to bowls, meadows, and the abandoned mining town of Independence. The upper seven miles are moderate to difficult. Shorter and easier is the East Boulder- Dry Fork Trail, with extensive play areas along its seven mile length.

Map

Snowmobiling the Main Boulder Road south of Big Timber, Montana, takes you into the heart of the Absaroka and Beartooth Mountain ranges. This County road is maintained and groomed for snowmobile use through a cooperative agreement with the Sweet Grass County Recreation Association, the State of Montana Department of Fish, Wildlife and Parks, and the Big Timber Ranger District of the Gallatin National Forest It is unique in that it provides snowmobilers a legal corridor deep into the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness.

Depending on snow conditions, snowmobilers should plan on an approximate 35 mile round trip from where you park to the Wilderness Boundary above the ghost town of Independence. This ride offers trail conditions for riders up to the intermediate level. The higher elevations adjacent to the Wilderness have some limited open play areas that can provide more difficulty if desired. Avalanches are a concern in some of areas along the trail above Box Canyon and in the alpine play areas. Of course. snowmobiling is not allowed in the Wilderness. Although the Wilderness Boundary is posted, care should be taken not to violate Federal law.

The Main Boulder Road begins approximately 30 miles south of Big Timber at the Gallatin National Forest boundary. The road is accessed by State Highway 298 and is not plowed above the Whispering Pines area, about four miles south of the Forest boundary. Snowmobilers generally can drive their cars further than this and normally park along the road where snow conditions prevent further passage. Blowing and drifting may hinder passage from one day to the next even though there has been no new snow. No gas or services are available south of Big Timber.

The Main Boulder area is prime elk winter habitat and large numbers of elk can normally be seen lower in the drainage. Moose can also be expected and often use the groomed trail as a travel route above Box Canyon.

The Boulder River drainage is rich in history. By following the road from the Forest boundary south and using this guide you can become familiar with some of the past events that have taken place here.

The Main Boulder area was first designated as pad of, the Absaroka Division of the Yellowstone Forest Reserve by President Theodore Roosevelt just after the turn of the century. In 1907 the Forest Reserves became National Forests and the Main Boulder area was reassigned to the Absaroka National Forest It wasn't until 1942 that the Boulder was consolidated and became part of the Gallatin. The vast majority of the watershed was designated part of the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness in 1978.

The scenic Boulder River canyon south of the Forest boundary is very steep, with elevations ranging from 5,100 feet at the Natural Bridge area to 11,300 feet on Mt. Douglas. From the Forest boundary south to the head of the drainage is approximately 27 air miles. At its widest point, the valley from ridge to ridge is about 12 miles. Within the Forest boundary are several areas of private inholdings located primarily along the river. Further downstream, well below the Forest, the river serves as a water source for the city of Big Timber, Montana.

The Boulder area was occupied by the Crow Indian Nation during the 18th and 19th centuries. In 1882 the Crows ceded the area to the United States, and the Boulder drainage was opened to homesteaders and miners. During this period, an influx of prospectors poured into the Boulder. Gold and silver were discovered and several mining districts were established from the Natural Bridge area to the head of the drainage.

With the mining rush came permanent settlers who attempted subsistence farming and remained after the miners moved on. Because of harsh conditions and climate. many of these original settlers decided to cater to the influx of recreationists who were discovering the Boulder area. Several dude ranches were established which offered pack trips, fishing, hunting and other recreation to their clientele. Two of the guest ranches are still in operation today. Three of the other original dude ranches were later purchased by church groups and are now used as summer camps.

The Boulder area is now enjoyed by over 100,000 people annually during the summer months, and it is recognized by the Forest Service as the premier recreational area on the Big Timber Ranger District Although the 1978 Congressional designation of the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness curtails motorized use in a large portion of the drainage, snowmobilers still have the opportunity to experience the splendid snow and high alpine areas at the head of the drainage.

1. NATURAL BRIDGE AND FALLS STATE PARK - This small State Park features a I 00 foot waterfall during high water periods. During the winter season the Park can still be enjoyed by visitors and provides spectacular photo opportunities. Interesting geological exhibits are located here. The Natural Bridge collapsed in the summer of 1983, but the river still disappears underground during the winter.

2. LIONSHEAD - A natural feature of rock outcrops, the Lionshead is best viewed from the south looking north. Some think the formation resembles the form of a lion crouching ready to leap on a mouse.

3. INDIAN CAVES - Native Americans once used the eaves that can be seen from the road west of the Main Boulder Ranger Station. Inside one of these eaves is located several pictographs that appear to have religious significance.

4. INFANTRY BREASTWORKS - During September of 1878 Chief Joseph and his Nez Perce tribe were attempting an escape from reservation confinement. Their route from Yellowstone Park was likely to bring them down the Main Boulder River. Here, across the river from the Main Boulder Ranger Station on private land, is the location where the Army laid in wait. Lead by Second Lieutenant Hobart K Bailey, one unit of the Fifth Infantry waited for the arrival of the Nez Perce. The troopers chose this narrow open area of the canyon to ambush the Indians. While there the troopers constructed rock breastworks for their protection that are still visible today. The Nez Perce knew that the Boulder route could prove treacherous and decided not to lake it. Chief Joseph and his people where later captured in a bloody battle in the Bear Paw Mountains near the Canadian border.

5. MAIN BOULDER RANGER STATION - One of the nation's oldest Ranger Stations, the first building at 'Main Boulder' was constricted in 1905 by Ranger Harry Kaufman. At that time it was the headquarters for the Absaroka Division of the Yellowstone Forest Reserve. Ranger Kaufman and family lived there until the early 1940's. Forest Service summer crews are still housed at this station. The site has been nominated to the National Register of Historic Places and was designated a Montana Centennial Site in 1989.

6. THE TOWN OF CONTACT - Nothing is lelt of the town of Contact, which was located about one mile south of the Main Boulder Ranger Station. It was the focal point of mining activities in the Natural Bridge area in the 1890's. Contact hosted a hotel, post office, school, and a tavern by the name of 'The Bucket of Blood'. Located about halfway between Big Timber and Independence, Contact was a stage and freight stop where teams were changed.

7. FROZE-TO-DEATH CREEK - In the 1890's, John Chaney and some friends were returning to their cabin on the Main Boulder when they were overtaken by a blizzard. Although only September, Chaney was lost and froze to death by the creek that bears the name.

8. CHIPPY PARK - During the heyday of the 1880's and 90's. the local miners would make their way to Chippy Park where 'several enterprising girls established a sort of tent by the side of the road'. The name Chippy comes from the tender which the miners were issued call 'chips'. Apparently these ladies accepted 'chips' as payment for services rendered.

9. SPECULATOR CREEK AVALANCHE - In February, 1934 Ben Flemming went up Speculator Creek to trap marten and was caught in an avalanche. Flemming was finally found seven days later following a massive search.

10. FOURMILE RANGER STATION - Built in 1932, this rustic two room cabin is available to snowmobilers for rental from the Forest Serice at $20 per night. For more information contact Sandy at the Big Timber Ranger District, telephone 406-932-5155.

11. BOULDER PASS AVALANCHE - Around New Year's 1936, one Jack Tracy and a companion left Independence on a trapping expedition. They separated, and Tracy failed to show at their predetermined rendezvous. After waiting three days Tracy's friend called the Forest Service, and a search party was organized. Assistant Ranger, John Nordby and Roy Engle responded to the call. While searching for Tracy, Nordby was lost in a large avalanche near Boulder Pass and was not found until late June. Jack Tracy turned up safe and sound in Livingston shortly after the avalanche that took Nordby.

12. INDEPENDENCE TOWNSITE - In the high country at the head of the Main Boulder drainage, miners made several strikes in the 1880's, and the town of lndependence was born. In its heyday, Independence boasted a population estimated between 400 and 500 people with another 300 in the surrounding area. By 1900 lndependence was all but deserted. All that's left now are the skeletons of old buildings and the names of natural features given by the prospectors and miners which reflect the attitude of the era, like Hidden Treasure Bench, which the snowmobile trail crosses above lndependence.

13. SNOW COURSES - In a cooperative effort the local Soil Conservation Office and the Forest Service conduct snow surveys four times a year at three sites: one at Box Canyon, another at Independence, a last on Monitor Peak. Snow density and depth are determined and used to predict runoff and water volume for irrigation. The snow surveyors also provide information to the new Southwest Montana Avalanche Center in Bozeman. If you notice one of the survey sites, which are designated with orange metal signs, Please avoid these areas. Your snowmobile will cause unnatural compaction of the snow layers and result in inaccurate measurements.

14. WILDERNESS BOUNDARY - Although not popular with -some snowmobiling enthusiasts, the area surrounding the Upper Boulder is designated Wilderness in which no motorized use is allowed. Please work with the Sweet Grass County Recreation Association, the Department of Fish, Wildlife and Parks, and the Big Timber Ranger District and respect this boundary and not snowmobile into the Wilderness.

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See the map below for Wilderness and National forest area. Also, rent a forest service cabin and have a great vacation getaway!