Absoraka/Beartooths
Backdrop to Big Timber

Description      History       Access    Hiking    Maps  Cabins


View of the Boulder River Valley in the Absoraka-Beartooth Mountains

       

Description

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View from 
11,000 feet


View of Mount Cowen in the Absoraka Mountains

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Boulder River Valley

      The Boulder River and Absoraka-Beartooth Mountains can be seen as a backdrop to the recent Robert Redford movie "A River Runs Through It" starring Brad Pitt. This attests to the beauty of this vast range.   The Absaroka-Beartooth Mountain range is located 15 miles south of Big Timber up the Boulder River Valley past McLeod.  Bordering Yellowstone National Park to the south, the Absaroka-Beartooths cover 920,310 acres and is Montanas second largest roadless non-wilderness.  This region is the highest contiguous land mass above 10,000 feet in the United States and contains 69 of the top 100 peaks in Montana.  29 peaks in the rise above 12,000 feet with Granite Peak being the highest point in all of Montana at 12,799 feet. These mountains serve as a pristine, undisturbed watershed for the Boulder River which flows into the Yellowstone river at Big Timber.  In the valleys and canyons below the 9,000 foot tree line, Lodgepole pine, Engelmann spruce, subalpine fir, whitebark pine, and douglas fir are the main conifers found in the Absoraka-Beartooths.  Wildflowers also abound in the valley meadows throughout the summer and into the fall. 

 From the alpine ridges and mountain peaks, the Absaroka-Beartooth Mountains offer panoramic views of alpine lakes, cirques, moraines, tundra plateaus, and coniferous forests and alpine medows set in deep glaciated mountain canyons. 1,000 deep blue alpine lakes, three-hundred-foot waterfalls plunging to snowbound cirque lakes, countless cascades, and remnant glaciers on high north slopes treat hikers, hunters, skiiers, and campers to the beauty of this vast wilderness.  

The Beartooths are made up of a Precambrian base that, at 4 billion years, is among the oldest known rock on Earth.    The Absarokas, composed of stratified volcanic and softer sedimentary rock of a much younger age, has eroded some of the peaks into gentler, more rounded mountains Mt. Cowan is the highest peak in the Absarokas at 11,206 feet as compared to the 12,799 Granite Peak in the Beartooths.        


View from atop Beartooth Pass

      Because of its unique characteristics of the Beartooths, 386 plant species have been discovered - the richest flora of any mountain range in North America.  Dwarf wild flowers, lichens, and shrubs have adapted to the high mountain climate over millions of years to thrive in pockets of micro-climates.  The vegetation is low to the ground takes advantage of pockets of warmth and moisture in the rocks. The Absarokas also have unique and rare plant species including bear grass, ferns, and the state's only population of high-bush cranberry. Buttercups, Shooting Stars and other wildflowers follow the retreating snowbanks each spring, so as you climb up into the altitude, you are bound to see wildflowers between the months of June and August.

     This country is extremely fragile - especially the higher altitudes where growth is slower. Care must be taken to not leave any impact on the land.   Pollution from human waste is a threat as is a "human browse line" created by hikers and campers looking for firewood that took a hundred years to grow in the 6 to 12 week growing season.  To safeguard water quality and wilderness values, camping is banned within 200 feet of lakes and streams and party size is limited to no more than fifteen people..

     The Boulder River is the dividing line between the Absaroka Range on the west and the Beartooth Mountains.  These two mountain ranges, although adjacent to each other, are distinctly different ecosystems with different geology, topography, plant species.  This makes the Boulder Valley a beautiful ecosystem edge adding intrigue and diversity to the area.  

   

      Once a plains grazer, grizzly bears holds the Absaroka-Beartooths as one of its last strongholds in Montana and gives the area a  feeling of true wildness.  Here bears can live relatively undisturbed by human contact.  Besides grizzly bear, moose, bighorn sheep,  elk, deer, golden eagles, falcons,  mountain goats, and hawks call this area home as well as many other animals. 

    Popular activities that residents and visitors enjoy include hiking, backpacking, mountaineering, horseback riding, cross-country skiing, and fishing.  

       

History of the Absoraka-Beartooth Mountains

     During the 1870's explorers called the range "Yellowstone Range" or "Upper Yellowstone Mountains"  In 1885, USGS geologist Arnold Hague placed the name Absaroka Range on his new maps.  In the Hidatsa language, "Absaroka" was the name that Crows used to refer to themselves.  It has been interpreted to mean "children of the large beaked bird," "forked-tail bird," "bird people," or "sparrowhawk people."  The Crow inhabited much of south-central Montana prior to the white man's entrance into the area.  The Beartooths were named after a jagged mountain peak in the range which looks like a bear's tooth.   

     In 1932 this area was set aside to protect its natural state, seeing the fragile nature of the high alpine ecosystem. Montanas U.S. Senator Lee Metcalf (D-Montana) introduced a bill to make the Absaroka-Beartooth a National Wilderness Area and in 1975 President Jimmy Carter signed the legislation. 

 

Access to the Absoraka-Beartooth Mountains

     Today the Absoraka-Beartooth Wilderness area has a system of 850 miles of Forest Service Trails for recreational enthusiasts to access this area by foot, horse, or ski.  A good gravel road up the Boulder River with many campsites along the way offer hikers, hunters, fishermen, photographers, and outdoor enthusiasts a chance to enjoy the beauty of this area. Take the Boulder River Road south from Big Timber where you will pass by McLeod and its famous "Road Kill Cafe".  About 20 miles up the pavement ends and a well maintained gravel road will take you up through the valley and to several trailheads and campgrounds.  


View of the Boulder Valley . 

 

     

 The Big Timber Ranger District rents several Forest Service cabins along the edges of the complex. The five-person capacity Fourmile cabin is in the main Boulder River canyon 42 miles south of Big Timber and is rented from October I to May 30. Cross-country skiers can access the cabin during winter, but avalanche conditions must be carefully checked before skiing up side drainages, such as Fourmile Creek. The four-person Deer Creek cabin is rented yearround. The cabin is 33 miles south of Big Timber with the last 4 miles by trail on foot or horseback. The six-person West Boulder cabin is available from December 1 to May 30. It is 30 miles southwest of Big Timber on the West Boulder River adjacent to the campground. During winter a short ski may be necessary on the county road.


For more information contact:  Gallatin National Forest 

 


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